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Chinatown counterfeiters turn professional

Street vendors are a thing of the past as they open up studio fronts

Published: Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Updated: Tuesday, August 3, 2010 12:08

If you've ever left the subway at Canal Street station or simply walked past this crowded "Mecca" of knockoffs, a counterfeit goods vendor has probably approached you. These hagglers are part of a multi-million dollar operation that runs mostly in Lower Manhattan.

Despite efforts by recent NYC mayors to clean up the city, Chinatown remains a thriving source of counterfeit retail and other clandestine transactions.

For tourists, Chinatown is designer heaven. For residents in Lower Manhattan, Chinatown brings an unwelcome wave of illegal activity that doesn't stop at counterfeiting.

Manufacturers of knockoff goods are largely involved in other areas of criminal activity such as drug trade, human trafficking and terrorism.
It used to be that you could spot a knockoff right away. Manufacturers were not even keen enough to duplicate actual releases. The knockoffs displayed the logo of the designer, but the design of the bag would be one that was never even created in the first place.

These days, however, you can get an actual replica of sought-after bags like the Chanel 2.55 and Fendi Spy.

After going through a couple of stalls you may not be successful in finding an exact replica of one of these bags right away. In fact, most of the bags on display are pretty bad copies. In some stalls, you might see the back wall lined with shoes —a new area in which counterfeiters are benefiting.
Christian Louboutin sandals, YSL pumps or Chanel flats all under $200.

The price still seems steep for most shoppers, but these are all shoes that sell for over $700 in stores like Saks and Bergdorf Goodman.

There are, however, many noticeable differences in the fake shoes from the originals. The cut around the ankle is uneven in more than one instance. The stitching is off or the points are too round or too pointy.

Although they resemble the original shoes to a certain degree, they are by no means identical. To someone who is unfamiliar with the authentic item, the replica would probably do, but in the eyes of a familiar consumer, they are poorly constructed and not worth the (still) hefty discounted price.

There's another world of knockoff goods that most tourists don't have access to. This is the operation of a chain of boutique-like vendors who sell out of office buildings or studios.

They're nothing like the vans or basement rooms where you're practically locked in until you make a purchase —these transactions are extremely dangerous. The owners want to make sure you live in New York so they can ensure a returning customer.

In one building in SoHo, there is a replica boutique of this sort. Upon meeting one of the owners, which can only be done through a friend or someone in-the-know, as it is extremely secretive and confidential you will be led upstairs to a door with a sign that reads "STUDIO 3."

You will step in and face a red curtain where voices of women— who you will come to find are all Upper East Side women dressed head-to-toe in designers can be heard throughout the open, well-lit studio space. Once inside the quick flash of fluorescent lights will trick your mind into thinking you've died and gone to designer heaven.

There are shelves and racks lined with designer bags, mostly Chanel, (it is the most sought-after brand amongst high-end shoppers). This place looks nothing like the crowded, messy stalls on Canal Street. It is more like an underground shopping cult that the least expected women are shopping amongst.

One woman claims, "I buy ten fake and one real. No one would ever expect me to be wearing a fake so I can get away with it." It's this attitude amongst many wealthy shoppers that keeps them coming back to these replica boutiques.

The quality of the goods in these stores is also much higher than the typical fake bags in Chinatown. For this reason, they are also more expensive (a typical bag that runs for $3,000 in a store will cost around $300 at these boutiques).

These were not your typical Chinatown shoppers. But then again this is not your typical Chinatown showroom. No basement and no pressure to buy.

It almost operated like a high-end, members-only boutique. Lots of lighting, organized shelves, everything came boxed and dust-bagged. One would never think it was a counterfeit goods operation.

Despite the raids on Chinatown stalls and vendors who sell out of vans, the counterfeit goods market is thriving and it doesn't seem like the majority of New Yorkers (authorities included) are in the know.

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